Waking up before dawn and leaving my husband sleeping, I creep along the trail, coffee in one hand, camera in the other. It’s still dark, ...

Waking up before dawn and leaving my husband sleeping, I creep along the trail, coffee in one hand, camera in the other. It’s still dark, ...

Piyaro Shavani, a 47-year-old local activist and tourism promoter, knows the Gadroo Rann like the back of his hand. He has spent seven nights in this vast, salt-encrusted wilderness — two in November ...